![]() 09/18/2015 at 23:48 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
... with eight wheels and eleven gears and sixteen cylinders.
![]() 09/18/2015 at 23:54 |
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Nine gears? Fail....
![]() 09/18/2015 at 23:58 |
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Corvette 4spd auto + Challenger 5spd auto
![]() 09/18/2015 at 23:58 |
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Fuck.
11.
Eleven gears.
![]() 09/19/2015 at 00:03 |
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Dyno graphs or gtfo
Also, one is missing a gear
![]() 09/19/2015 at 00:10 |
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Now we’re cooking with gas!
Wheres the red one though? It was red, right? The 426, I mean...
![]() 09/19/2015 at 00:16 |
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Check OP’s previous post.
![]() 09/19/2015 at 00:29 |
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Werd.
The Elephant does something like 525/630 at the wheels, and the Vette’s been flirting with something north of that (but final numbers are still a secret till we get the tune worked out).
And then there’s the nitrous...
![]() 09/19/2015 at 00:30 |
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Nope. Always been black.
![]() 09/19/2015 at 00:38 |
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Really? Funky, not sure why I remember red....
RT badging on that? Must really make people feel inadequate when you take off....
Hows the rear pillar doing? Wrinkled enough? Also, I remember you said you bought it with that setup, but Im curious about the motor and the build, what was the method? 392 originally? Im sure youve seen that I want to go bigger in the HEMIWagon...depending on how easy to source some of the parts are, I have some thoughts on things I want to do, but may seek some advice on how yours is built. I can certainly deal with the tuning end with my friends shop or a recommendation from them....
![]() 09/19/2015 at 00:50 |
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The motor was built by Inertia in Texas. It is a 6.1L based 426 stroker with 9.5:1 compression and a hell of a lot of cam. It has Eagle heads, 2” stainless headers that collect and funnel to 3” pipe and a set of magna flows.
Running SRT8 injectors and an upgraded fuel pump.
Replaced the NAG1 with a Viking unit. Essentially just the NAG1 box with AMG components (since AMG used to stick this box behind they supercharged V8’s in the early 2000’s). I also have blue top solenoids which increase pressure and really firm up the shifts - some might call it uncomfortable, but I like to be reminded of what’s thumping away underhood.
I went with upgraded axles when I did the nitrous shot earlier this summer. Better safe than sorry...
You will also need a piggy-back ECU if you are sticking a 6.1L block in a 5.7 car. And never let the dealer re-flash your PCM. For the love of god, it’s like bricking an iPhone.
![]() 09/19/2015 at 01:51 |
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Fuck. You win. Im only at 1288 hp in my garage. But I do have 20 cylinders and 20 gears.
![]() 09/19/2015 at 03:42 |
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Any new videos to share with us? Those cut outs sounded like heaven.
![]() 09/19/2015 at 06:45 |
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gib!
![]() 09/19/2015 at 12:52 |
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That sounds like a lot of motorcycles...
If you add in my truck, I’m over 2,000.
:D
![]() 09/19/2015 at 12:54 |
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Working on some more.
Honey Badger (the Corvette, cause fuck y’all haters, it don’t care what you think of its cheap interior) is going to make an appearance, too. That thing sounds wicked.
Probably going to go burn off the last of the old Toyos tomorrow and make a fun video.
![]() 09/19/2015 at 14:02 |
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Nah. Cts v sport, c6 z06, e46 m3 in the garage at the moment. If you add in my other 8 cars, im at god knows what.
![]() 09/19/2015 at 15:46 |
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gib?
![]() 09/19/2015 at 22:00 |
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I was going to consult a tuning shop closer to when I get there, but I was going to look into the ability to re-tune the ECU as opposed to going with the piggy back, but whatever works really.
I had plans to get a 392 (6.4) and bore that one out, do a forged bottom end, ported heads, titanium valve springs, and a borla velocity stack intake. I want to go manual, which is the biggest issue for me, and it looks like the T56 Magnum might be the only thing that will back up the car. Im going to be upgrading the rear from my stock 2.82 open diff to a 3.06 wavetrac. The axles are another thing ill need to research more. Was the rear of your car converted to the SRT rear? I know the RT and SRT are different sizes, so whatever I get just has to work, like you said, better be safe than sorry.
The T56 would need an extra long pickup tube, and I would probably explore something similar for the motor, since my car is lowered, I would need to re-shape the oil pan to keep clearance and minimize risk.
Buying and building the motor is at least a year away, probably longer, but those are my current thoughts. I figure now is a good time to collect parts because the cars are being wrecked still and are also still made. In a couple of years, lots of these parts might become very hard to get your hands on...just finding a local tuner to help is going to be difficult...I dont know of any Mopar specialty tuners in my immediate area, but my friends shop is very open minded and willing to take a very big challenge.
![]() 09/19/2015 at 22:50 |
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Honestly, I wouldn’t go manual. The NAG1 is stupid strong and can be easily programmed to handle well. And it’s faster.
These motors really start making power around 4k RPM, depending on your cam and tune. That’s a bit peaky for three pedals, in my opinion.
The Vette is a six speed and puts about 480 ft/lbs off nitrous to the wheels. That’s a serious handful, and it has 4” of extra rubber. I keep busy shifting that bastard.
![]() 09/19/2015 at 23:33 |
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Well, its a worst case scenario to keep the auto for me, I love the car, I just really want to row my own again, along with having something different. I met a guy who has connections with someone else that does custom cams. The guy I met has a 6000lb first gen Suburban with a procharged V8 swap, and he had a custom ground cam that gives him a lower rpm power band, something I would want out of the HEMI.
Its a long way away, but Im exploring every possible avenue before I just throw in the towel and leave the auto....practicality be damned, I want to have the Magnum that should have been the SRT8
![]() 09/20/2015 at 03:47 |
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Polandball , Poland’s English isn’t too good so says gib as in give.